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23 November 2018
November 21 is not just any day for Venetians, it is a living symbol and memory that dates back to distant and dark times.
On this day, when schools, universities and many shops are closed, a special feast is celebrated that began more than 400 years, and that evokes a sincere popular feeling for the Madonna. A feast is held each year on November 21 in honour of the Madonna della Salute (Our Lady of Good Health), the patron saint of Venice to whom was dedicated the church of the same name located at the Punta della Dogana. This church was built to give thanks to the Madonna for ending the black plague which, in the years 1630 and 1631, decimated the city’s population. This tragic period was also the backdrop for several chapters of Alessandro Manzoni’s novel “I Promessi Sposi” (the Betrothed).
In these distant years, the doge Nicolò Contarini and the patriarch Giovanni Tiepolo, out of desperation for the deaths caused by the epidemic, organised a procession of prayer that brought together all the surviving citizens. During the procession, the Venetians made a solemn vow to the Madonna promising to build a temple in her honour if the city survived the plague. In a few weeks, the number of infections declined until stopping completely, leaving a toll of about 47,000 deaths (about one quarter of the population), including the doge and the patriarch.
The Government of the Serenissima kept its vow to build and dedicate a church to the Madonna. The majestic Basilica of the Madonna della Salute was designed in the sumptuous but elegant Baroque style by the great Venetian architect, Baldassarre Longhena.
Today this day is not only characterised by the religious importance that is hidden in its origin, but also by the atmosphere it creates.
The protagonist of this day and that also links it to the other feasts commemorating the Venetian plague is the Ponte di Barche, which connects the banks of the area of San Moisè and S. Maria del Giglio to the Basilica del Longhena, crossing the Grand Canal.
The air of this day in late November is not only exciting and humid, but is also filled with the sweet and sugary perfume of sweets and pancakes coming from the stalls set up along the bank at the sides of the Basilica della Madonna della Salute.
On this day the entire city is in a state of ferment: charity events, museums and outdoor parties are everywhere, and Venice is in full celebration for an evil that no longer exists.
The fulcrum of this day, however, remains the Basilica, a treasure chest of infinite beauty and inspiration for artists and architects from all over the world. Like a temple of beauty, it is a secret treasure chest of classic and refined paintings by Tintoretto that, until 6 January, will feature in an exhibition celebrating the 500th anniversary of the Venetian artist .
The large windows of the Basilica, with their characteristic volutes and scrolls, are a symbol of refinement and beauty dedicated to the Lady who Venetians believe ended the plague that brought misery and despair to the Serenissima.
For us at Salvadori, this feast, like the Basilica and its precious paintings, is an essential symbol of our being Venetian and of being indissolubly tied to an open, welcoming city that has been able to rise from such a dark and terrible moment.
